Map of the Greek Cyclade Islands

Map of the Greek Cyclade Islands showing the route we took to Santorini, Mykonos, and Delos.

On our way to Santorini (excerpt from my book, The Artist on the Road: Impressions of Greece)

We exit the cab at the port town of Paraeus, grab out bags, and walk over to the ferry. Its still too dark to see the Aegean, but I can smell fresh fish and seawater. As we enter the ferry and queue up to hand over our tickets, the enormous steel structure brings back childhood memories of a carnival ride. We carry our bags up the steps and search for a seat. The boat is crowded, but eventually we find a place near Goody’s, the Greek version of a fast food restaurant. Thankfully, no smoking is allowed inside the boat–a big plus. We park ourselves in the seats, our luggage close at hand. But the atmosphere in here feels stale and the lack of windows, claustrophobic. Even though smoking is allowed on the decks, I’m willing to put up with it for open space and a view. We grab our bags and climb stairs to the upper deck. At the front of the boat we discover, to our satisfaction, many seats available and few smokers. A gentle sea breeze provides fresh air and keeps the lingering smoke at bay. Early morning light illuminates tiny islands with low, fog-like clouds as we ferry out into the Aegean. To pass time, we pull out a map and guess the names of the islands as they come into view. Most appear uninhabited, barren, with just the occasional touch of green.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Walking to the top of the Acropolis, I notice only a quarter of the people that were here the first time. I’m not sure what has changed in the last week but it’s a welcome sight. I pass the Odeon theater, which was built in 161 AD by Herodes Atticus as an indoor auditorium but over time has lost its wooden roof and is now used as an outdoor theater. More recently, the musicians Yanni and Sting, and the Greek singer Nana Mouskouri have all held concerts in it. Now, where to sit? I could spend at least a week up here drawing and painting. Let me check my trail mix supply.

Temple of Poseidon at Sounion

Sounion, one of the more complete temples I’ve seen, is perched on a cliff overlooking the Aegean. I’d hoped I would be able to paint this ruin with the sea in the background, but I can find no angle to accomplish that. I find a spot with a traditional three-quarters view, sit on an ancient block of marble, and begin to draw. I’m tired from the day’s drive that, unbelievably, started in Delphi, so at this point, I’m just going through the motions. I need a break. I’m finding that being an artist on the road is not just about the drawing. I did a lot of driving today, and all my other energy resulted in only two paintings. Driving, not painting, took up most of the day. But drawing is now relaxing me, allowing my mind to slow down enough to soak up the surroundings. I’m in rhythm with the land once again, and I can smell the salty sea.

Entrance to Brauron

As we drive to the archeological site of Brauran located near Vravrona, Greece, I notice the countryside feels like my home in California’s Sonoma County. Vravrona is an agricultural area with head-pruned grape vines growing in the fields. We pass several farm stands at road side, selling fruit and vegetables. The unassuming site of Brauran tucks neatly off the side of the road, blending in with the surrounding landscape. With no parking lot or signs to distinguish the site, we drive right past it and have to turn around and park.

Mary Wollstonecraft Godwin’s Grave, St Pancras Churchyard

Mary Shelley, who wrote the book Frankenstein, regularly visited her mother’s grave in the St Pancras Churchyard in London. Mary never had a chance to know her mother as she died of septicaemia a few days after Mary was born in 1797. Although her father remarried, Mary despised her stepmother for favoring her own children over her, and the peacefulness of the graveyard provided a welcome escape from the tense atmosphere back home. Mary would often pack a lunch and spend an entire afternoon at the grave eating, napping and reading her mothers books.

On occasion, Percy Shelley, Mary’s future husband, secretly met her at the gravesite. As their affections grew for each other, it was here that the two confessed their love for each other. Percy was already married, with one child and another on the way.

While on a layover in London on my way to Greece, I had just enough time to visit Ms. Goodwin’s gravesite. While there, I wondered around the churchyard and imagined Mary’s peaceful afternoons. Sitting next to Mary Wollstonecraft Godwin’s grave as Mary had done so long ago, I created this drawing in my Moleskine sketchbook.

Although Mary Goodwin’s remains were later moved to Bournemouth, England in 1851, her original tombstone still remains.

Goats and Delphi’s Oracle

Delphi, Greece

While enjoying the view on the hotel balcony, I hear the rhythmic sound of bells, as if someone is playing music nearby. But when I listen more closely, I realize that the sound is coming from down the hill. I lean out over the rail to determine the origin of this mysterious music. Strangely, it’s a herd of goats. The clinks and clanks come from the bells around their necks as they walk. According to legend, goats found the site that became Delphi’s Oracle. Their goatherd noticed them bleating strangely and gamboling about. The goatherd himself also received the manic enthusiasm when he approached a crevice that emitted a fragrant gas. It smelled like the sweetest and most expensive perfume.

Sunset at Delphi Over Looking the Pleistos Valley

As we pull into town, I can tell that Delphi is different than any place I have been before. The town clings to the side of the mountain and is defined by narrow, shop-lined streets terraced one above the other. Long staircases climb the mountain between streets, providing shortcuts for pedestrians and additional sidewalks for tavernas. Young people, most likely college students on a field trip, cluster in small groups, giggling and running about.

The first hotel we walk into, Hotel Athena, has a room available with a view overlooking the valley. I throw my backpack on a bed and step outside on our balcony, which seems to hang over the gorge. The sight is breathtaking, so I reach for my supplies and attempt to paint the Pleistos with the sun setting in the background. I’m aware that I’ll never capture its vastness or presence, but maybe I can reproduce some of the sunset’s colors.

Cafe at Mycenae

As we exit the hotel, the evening sunset splashes brilliant orange across the sky and paints the landscape in a warm glow. The street is still devoid of life, but a little farther on, we see two groups of diners on the patio of a restaurant. A host seats us near the other patrons, and we enjoy an Italian dinner of pasta, salad, and crusty bread while discussing our travel plans. Tomorrow is a big day for us since Mycenae is one of our more anticipated stops. We’ll walk amongst the ancient ruins and learn about the Mycenaean culture that flourished here.